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	<title>ChrisOndo.com &#187; Bowling</title>
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	<description>Creative thoughts from Chris Ondo</description>
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		<title>Bowling Lingo</title>
		<link>http://chrisondo.com/2011/04/26/bowling-lingo/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Apr 2011 06:37:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chris</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bowling]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Bowling Lingo ACTION Spin on the ball and the movement of the pins caused by that spin. A relatively slow ball with a lot of action can be much more effective than a very fast ball with little action. Pins flying and mixing, ending with a good makeable leave. Bowling for money, usually one-on-one. ADDRESS [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Bowling Lingo</strong></p>
<p><strong><a name="ACTION">ACTION</a></strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Spin on the ball and the movement of the pins caused by that  spin. A  relatively slow ball with a lot of action can be much more  effective  than a very fast ball with little action.</li>
<li>Pins flying and mixing, ending with a good makeable leave.</li>
<li>Bowling for money, usually one-on-one.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="ADDRESS"><strong>ADDRESS</strong></a><br />
The bowler&#8217;s stance before beginning the approach.</p>
<p><a name="ADJUSTMENT"><strong>ADJUSTMENT</strong></a><br />
The changing of part of your game to be more competitive on the   particular lane and/or lane condition you are bowling. This can mean an   alignment change, equipment change, or even changes in your physical or   mental game; some are subtle, others more pronounced.</p>
<p><a name="APPROACH"><strong>APPROACH</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>The space extending back from the foul line used to make the steps and delivery.</li>
<li>How the bowler gets to the foul line.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="AREA"><strong>AREA</strong></a><br />
A player has &#8220;area&#8221; if they are able to hit a larger number of  boards  and still get the ball back to the pocket. Modern high scoring   environments can often give a player a 5-8 board area.</p>
<p><a name="ARMSWING"><strong>ARMSWING</strong></a><br />
The path your arm takes from your pushaway to release. Generally it is  desirable to have your armswing in a consistent plane of movement.</p>
<p><a name="ARROWS"><strong>ARROWS</strong></a><br />
The triangles embedded on the lane used in aiming the throw.</p>
<p><a name="AXIS"><strong>AXIS</strong></a><br />
Generally the reference is to the positive axis point (PAP), which  is  the point on the ball where the bowler&#8217;s release creates the initial   axis of rotation.</p>
<p><a name="AXIS TILT"><strong>AXIS TILT</strong></a><br />
Ranging from 0 to 90 degrees, this is determined by the direction  your  axis is facing when you release the ball. 0 is parallel to the  gutters,  90 is parallel to the foul line. The less axis tilt you have,  the  sooner the ball will go into a roll. Higher degrees of axis tilt   promotes skid.</p>
<p><a name="BABY SPLIT"><strong>BABY SPLIT</strong></a><br />
The 2-7 or 3-10 split. Easier to pick up compared to a regular split.</p>
<p><a name="BACK ENDS"><strong>BACK ENDS</strong></a><br />
Usually refers to the far end portion of the lane where the most  hook  can occur.  If the back ends are very dry, the ball will continue  to  hook with power for most players; if the back ends are tight, most   players will see more deflection in the pocket and fewer strikes.</p>
<p><a name="BACKUP BALL"><strong>BACKUP BALL</strong></a><br />
A ball that curves left to right for a right-handed bowler or right  to  left for a left-handed bowler. Professionals normally do not throw  back  up balls.</p>
<p><a name="BAD RACK"><strong>BAD RACK</strong></a><br />
A full set of pins that appears to have one or more not properly positioned; generally undesirable. See Re-rack</p>
<p><a name="BAGGER"><strong>BAGGER</strong></a> (SUCH AS FIVE BAGGER)<br />
A string of strikes; i.e., five bagger is five in a row.</p>
<p><a name="BAKER GAME/SYSTEM"><strong>BAKER GAME/SYSTEM</strong></a><br />
A method of team play in which in all five players bowl together to   make one game; player #1 bowls frames 1 and 6; player #2 bowls frames 2   and 7 etc. Most Baker matches are two games, total pins.</p>
<p><a name="BALANCE"><strong>BALANCE</strong></a> (AS APPLIED TO A BALL)<br />
The weight of a bowling ball is not always evenly distributed in the   sphere. USBC rules allow a ball to vary 3 ounces from the drilled top   half to bottom half of a ball, and one ounce from the left to right   side. Before resin balls, these weights were used to subtly change the   roll pattern of a ball. A ball that has negative balances tends to be   influenced to turn away from the pins; a ball with positive balance will   be influenced to turn into the pins.</p>
<p><a name="BALANCE"><strong>BALANCE</strong></a> (AS APPLIED TO A PLAYER)<br />
A player is in balance if, at the point of release, they are able to   complete their follow through without falling off to one side;   generally means that the release and slide are simultaneous.</p>
<p><a name="BALANCE HOLE"><strong>BALANCE HOLE</strong></a><br />
As a general rule, if you take a bowling ball and place the label in   front of you and then exactly dissect the ball into two equal halfs, a   right and left side, the gross weight of each half would be the same.   However, if you dissect the ball off center, a greater portion of the   weight block will be on one side of the ball, possibly making that half   of the ball too heavy vis-a-vis the other half; also, modern high tech   balls and their asymmetrical cores can be drilled in such a manner as  to  be in violation of the maximum tolerances allowed by the USBC for  side  to side weight (which is a one ounce differential); to get the  ball back  to legal compliance an extra, non-gripping hole may be  drilled to  remove the excess weight. This extra hole is the balance  hole. The  balance hole can also be used to increase or decrease a  ball&#8217;s reaction  and/or to fine tune a more subtle change in ball  reaction.</p>
<p><a name="BALL RETURN"><strong>BALL RETURN</strong></a><br />
The physical part of the equipment upon which the ball sits after being sent back to you after a delivery.</p>
<p><a name="BALL SPINNER"><strong>BALL SPINNER</strong></a><br />
A machine that is used to spin a ball in a container so that the  user can apply ball polish or sand the ball down more quickly.</p>
<p><a name="BALL TRACK"><strong>BALL TRACK</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>The area of the lane where most balls are thrown;</li>
<li>the area on a ball where the ball rolls; most balls will show scratches and wear in this area after several games.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="BEAK"><strong>BEAK</strong></a><br />
The nose; the center of the headpin.</p>
<p><a name="BED POSTS"><strong>BED POSTS</strong></a><br />
The 7-10 split.</p>
<p><a name="BELLY THE BALL"><strong>BELLY THE BALL</strong></a><br />
Describes the type of shot where a player stands inside and tosses  it  to the outside in the hopes it returns to the pocket for a strike.</p>
<p><a name="BIG FOUR"><strong>BIG FOUR</strong></a><br />
The 4-6-7-10 split.</p>
<p><a name="BLIND SCORE"><strong>BLIND SCORE</strong></a><br />
When a league bowler is &#8220;blind&#8221; and can&#8217;t find his/her way to the   league that evening, the bowler&#8217;s average is simply used (as if he/she   just bowled that score) when figuring the team&#8217;s total for each game.</p>
<p><a name="BLOW"><strong>BLOW</strong></a><br />
A miss or an error failing to covert a spare other than a split.</p>
<p><a name="BOWL OUT"><strong>BOWL OUT</strong></a><br />
The practice of allowing a team player to complete their game by   bowling more than their scheduled turn at one time; allowed as a   courtesy to a player that has other time commitments; league and   tournament rules can prohibit the practice.</p>
<p><a name="BOARD"><strong>BOARD</strong></a><br />
A lane consists of 39 strips of wood, each called boards; they are   usually numbered by the player and used as targeting terms; i.e., I was   throwing the 5th board; in synthetic lanes there are no boards as such,   but usually the synthetic overlay has a pattern that resembles natural   wood lanes.</p>
<p><a name="BODY ENGLISH"><strong>BODY ENGLISH</strong></a><br />
Movements and contortions of the body intended to steer the ball as it travels down the lane.</p>
<p><a name="BOOMER"><strong>BOOMER</strong></a><br />
A big hooking ball; a person that throws a big hooking ball.</p>
<p><a name="BOTTOM WEIGHT"><strong>BOTTOM WEIGHT</strong></a><br />
The weight of a bowling ball is not always evenly distributed in the   sphere. USBC rules allow a ball to vary 3 ounces from the drilled top   half to bottom half of a ball, and one ounce from the left to right   side. Before resin balls, these weights were used to subtly change the   roll pattern of a ball. A ball that had higher top weight would tend to   go longer before hooking; a ball with bottom weight would tend to roll   earlier. Although still used in ball drilling layouts, it is less   important with the modern ball.</p>
<p><a name="BREAK POINT"><strong>BREAK POINT</strong></a><br />
The portion on the lane where the thrown ball begins to hook back to   the pocket. Finding the proper breakpoint (called &#8220;breakpoint   management&#8221;) is critical to the modern game. A ball that hooks too early   or one that hooks too late will make it very difficult for a player to   be consistent. Breakpoints can be adjusted by making changes in   alignment, target, ball, ball surface and ball speed.</p>
<p><a name="BROOKLYN"><strong>BROOKLYN</strong></a> (see JERSEY SIDE)<br />
Refers to a ball that crosses over to the other side of the headpin  opposite the side it was thrown (i.e. a Brooklyn strike hit the 1-2  pocket for a right-hander).</p>
<p><a name="BUCKET"><strong>BUCKET</strong></a><br />
A diamond-shaped, four-pin cluster, e.g., the 2-4-5-8 or 1-2-3-5.  Some  claim it to be the 2-4-5-8 for right handers, the 3-5-6-9 for a  lefty.</p>
<p><a name="CARRYDOWN"><strong>CARRYDOWN</strong></a><br />
The oil conditioner on the lane does not soak into the boards, it  sits  on top. As balls are thrown, the oil is subtly moved&#8230;it may be  pushed  left and right, or, it may be moved farther down the lane  (carried  down). Usually, but not always, a house with a lot of carrydown will not  allow a ball to hook as much on the  back ends and scores will be  lower. In some houses and oil patterns, the  initial pattern is too much  over/under and carry increases as the  carrydown effect takes place.  Carrydown is invisible to bowlers and  cannot be seen. A top  professional can anticipate carrydown and make  adjustments accordingly.</p>
<p><a name="CENTER OF GRAVITY"><strong>CENTER OF GRAVITY</strong></a> (CG)<br />
The heaviest part of a bowling ball. The “CG” is signified by a dye   mark placed on the ball by the manufacturer designating the center of   the weight mass relative to the top of the ball.</p>
<p><a name="CHANNEL"><strong>CHANNEL</strong></a> (also GUTTER)<br />
Semicircular grooves or drop-off area on each side of the bowling surface.</p>
<p><a name="CHOP"><strong>CHOP</strong></a><br />
To knock down one pin of a spare leave, while the pin next to or behind it remains standing.</p>
<p><a name="CLEAN GAME"><strong>CLEAN GAME</strong></a><br />
A game without any open frames.</p>
<p><a name="CLOSED POCKET"><strong>CLOSED POCKET</strong></a><br />
A full rack of pins set up for your strike ball such that the head  pin  is a tad off spot towards your ball hand; i.e., to the right for a   right handed player; closed pockets can give unpredictable results,   often negative.</p>
<p><a name="CONDITIONER"><strong>CONDITIONER</strong></a><br />
Another name for lane oil. All lanes need some type of protective   coating to prevent burn marks in the heads from the force of the thrown   balls. In the &#8220;old days&#8221; lane conditioner was used primarily as a   protective measure; today, under the System of Bowling, some centers   legally use the lane conditioner as a tool to assist in scoring and   guiding a ball to the pocket. The area of a lane that is heavily   conditioned will retard the hook, and if there is heavy conditioner in   the center/pocket area of the lane it can assist the ball into the   pocket.</p>
<p><a name="CONVENTIONAL GRIP"><strong>CONVENTIONAL GRIP</strong></a><br />
A type of ball drilling where the fingers are placed up to the  second  joint. Not used by many higher skilled players as it is much  harder to  get a hook on this type of drilling, although, it may assist  accuracy  in some players.</p>
<p><a name="COUNT"><strong>COUNT</strong></a><br />
Usually the number of pins knocked down in the next frame that apply to a spare or strike.</p>
<p><a name="COVERSTOCK"><strong>COVERSTOCK</strong></a><br />
The material that makes up the outer shell of the ball; the  hardness,  texture, and shine of a bowling ball. It is generally defined  as  “Aggressive”, meaning it is made of a high friction material that is   prone to large hook or flip when it encounters dry boards; or, “Medium”   which displays less tendency to hook; and, “Mild/Mellow” which is the   lowest friction material and the least sensitive to dry lanes.</p>
<p><a name="DEUCE"><strong>DEUCE</strong></a><br />
A game of 200 or more.</p>
<p><a name="DOTS"><strong>DOTS</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>Series of seven spots on the lanes past the foul line but before   the arrows; used to assist in targeting and alignment; also, the same   spots on the approach normally used to align your feet in your initial   stance.</li>
<li>Markers on the runway that guide the bowler&#8217;s approach.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="DOUBLE WOOD"><strong>DOUBLE WOOD</strong></a><br />
Any two pins such that one is directly behind the other; i.e., the 2-8; 3-9; 1-5.</p>
<p><a name="DOWN AND IN"><strong>DOWN AND IN</strong></a><br />
Refers to a line that is more direct and parallel to the boards; opposite of bellying the ball.</p>
<p><a name="DRESSING"><strong>DRESSING</strong></a><br />
The lane conditioner; the act of applying lane conditioner.</p>
<p><a name="DRIFT"><strong>DRIFT</strong></a><br />
The number of boards that you vary from straight in your approach to   the foul line. For example, if you place the inside edge of your slide  foot on board 15 on the approach, but your inside edge slides on the 12  board at the foul line, you have a three board inward drift.</p>
<p><a name="DUTCH 200"><strong>DUTCH 200</strong></a><br />
A game of exactly 200 made by alternating strikes and spares throughout the entire game.</p>
<p><a name="EARLY TIMING"><strong>EARLY TIMING</strong></a><br />
Releasing the ball before the sliding foot completes its slide;  usually  results in less hook and a weaker ball as the player does not  have the  proper balance and leverage to hit up on the ball.</p>
<p><a name="ENTRY ANGLE"><strong>ENTRY ANGLE</strong></a><br />
The angle relative to the pocket that the ball enters the pocket. As a  rule, increased angle means increased strikes (hence the preference for a  ball that hooks a lot, or for clean back ends.)</p>
<p><a name="FALL BACK SHOT"><strong>FALL BACK SHOT</strong></a><br />
A type of shot that starts to the opposite side of the normal pocket   and then fades back into the pocket; sometimes used on very oily lane   conditions.</p>
<p><a name="FAST EIGHT"><strong>FAST EIGHT</strong></a><br />
Describes an apparent good pocket hit that gets just eight (8) pins;   typically the right-handed players will leave the 4-7 spare and the   left-handed players the 6-10; usually the ball is a tad high when this  happens.</p>
<p><a name="FIFTH ARROW"><strong>FIFTH ARROW</strong></a><br />
The 25th board from the right (right hand player). The fifth arrow is  normally played by bowlers who have an “Out of Bounds” condition.</p>
<p><a name="FILL BALL"><strong>FILL BALL</strong></a><br />
The ball thrown after a spare in the 10th frame.</p>
<p><a name="FINGER GRIPS"><strong>FINGER GRIPS</strong></a><br />
Inserts that are placed in the finger and/or thumb holes to allow a   better grip and generation of more spin, later release and more lift.</p>
<p><a name="FINGER WEIGHT"><strong>FINGER WEIGHT</strong></a><br />
The drilling of a ball so that the finger holes are closer to the   ball&#8217;s label than is the thumbhole; it is a form of positive weight.</p>
<p><a name="FINGERTIP"><strong>FINGERTIP</strong></a><br />
A type of grip in which the fingers are inserted only as far as the first joint, allowing much more spin.</p>
<p><a name="FIRST ARROW"><strong>FIRST ARROW</strong></a><br />
The farthest to the right (for a right handed player); located on the 5th board.</p>
<p><a name="FLARE"><strong>FLARE</strong></a> (TRACK FLARE)<br />
The migration of the ball track from the bowler&#8217;s initial axis- the   axis upon release-to the final axis-the axis at the moment of impact   with the pins.</p>
<p><a name="FLAT"><strong>FLAT</strong></a><br />
A ball that deflects too much; ineffective ball; few revolutions; if  a  ball comes into the pocket on an apparent good hit but leaves a weak   hit such as the 5-7 or 8-10 split, it is said to have hit “flat.”</p>
<p><a name="FLAT GUTTER"><strong>FLAT GUTTER</strong></a><br />
The normal gutter is shaped somewhat oval so that the ball can roll   purely and cleanly to the pit area if it goes into the gutter   early&#8230;the channel effect; however, at the end of the lanes by the   pins, the gutters are flat, not ovaled. The height (from the pin deck to   the bottom of the flat gutters) is regulated by the USBC as if the  flat  gutters are too high, they will allow much better pinfall as pins  will  deflect off the sideboards and bounce back onto the lane much  easier  resulting in more pin action.</p>
<p><a name="FLUSH"><strong>FLUSH</strong></a><br />
Being solid in the pocket.</p>
<p><a name="FOLLOW THROUGH"><strong>FOLLOW THROUGH</strong></a><br />
What your arm does after the ball leaves your hand. It is generally   desirable to follow through towards your target and upward as this   promotes more accuracy.</p>
<p><a name="FOUL"><strong>FOUL</strong></a><br />
Crossing or touching the foul line at delivery. It&#8217;s penalized by a   count of zero pins. If the foul occurs on the first ball of a frame, the   bowler gets a second shot at a new rack.</p>
<p><a name="FOUL LINE"><strong>FOUL LINE</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>The line that separates the approach area from the beginning of the playing surface.</li>
<li>A line, usually red, between the approach and the beginning of the lane, 60 feet from the head pin.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="FOUNDATION FRAME"><strong>FOUNDATION FRAME</strong></a><br />
The 9th frame.</p>
<p><a name="FRAME"><strong>FRAME</strong></a><br />
A game of bowling is divided into 10 frames. In each frame there are   two chances to knock down all the pins, except in the 10th frame.</p>
<p><a name="FULL ROLLER"><strong>FULL ROLLER</strong></a><br />
A ball that rolls over its full circumference.  The track of the  ball  cuts between the thumb and finger holes. Although once very  popular, it  is now rarely used because it lacks the carrying power of a   semi-rolled ball due to the fact that it generally cannot create the   increased entry angles that are helpful to carrying your strikes,   particularly the off-hits.</p>
<p><a name="GREEK CHURCH"><strong>GREEK CHURCH</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>A split leave of five pins similar to the 4-6-7-9-10 so called   because it reminds people of an old cathedral type church with spires,   etc.</li>
<li>Any split on which there are three pins on one side of the lane and two on the other.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="HALF TEN"><strong>HALF TEN</strong></a><br />
The description of a 10-pin that was left by a ball in the pocket  and  the 6-pin laying down in front of the 10-pin in a half hearted  manner;  same as &#8220;weak 10&#8243;.</p>
<p><a name="HANDICAP"><strong>HANDICAP</strong></a><br />
An adjustment in scores in order to equalize competition by adding pins on a predetermined basis.</p>
<p><a name="HEADS"><strong>HEADS</strong></a><br />
That part of the first portion of the lane that is usually hard  maple  (wood lanes) to absorb the impact of the thrown balls, generally  the  first 20 feet of the wood lane.</p>
<p><a name="HEAD PIN"><strong>HEAD PIN</strong></a><br />
The 1 pin.</p>
<p><a name="HIGH"><strong>HIGH</strong></a><br />
A ball that hits more to the center of the head pin, often leaving a split.</p>
<p><a name="HIGH HIT"><strong>HIGH HIT</strong></a></p>
<ol>
<li>A solid hit on a pin due to contact near its front center</li>
<li>hitting too much head pin on a strike attempt.</li>
</ol>
<p><a name="HOUSE"><strong>HOUSE</strong></a><br />
The bowling establishment or building.</p>
<p><a name="JERSEY SIDE"><strong>JERSEY SIDE/HIT</strong></a><br />
A ball that hits on the opposite side of the player&#8217;s normal pocket;   i.e, a Jersey for a right handed player would hit on the 1-2 pocket;   usually refers to getting a strike in the &#8220;wrong&#8221; pocket.  Called a   “Brooklyn&#8221; in most locations of the country.</p>
<p><a name="KEGLER"><strong>KEGLER</strong></a><br />
German word for bowler.</p>
<p><a name="KICKBACKS"><strong>KICKBACKS</strong></a><br />
The side boards around the pins that divide lanes, where pins frequently  rebound or &#8220;kick&#8221; back onto the lane aiding in pin action.</p>
<p><a name="KING PIN"><strong>KING PIN</strong></a><br />
The 5-pin. It is a key pin to produce a strike: a light pocket hit or deflected hit leaves this pin standing.</p>
<p><a name="LEAGUE"><strong>LEAGUE</strong></a><br />
Organized competition on a weekly basis for team play.</p>
<p><a name="LEAVE"><strong>LEAVE</strong></a><br />
Pins left standing after the first ball has been rolled.</p>
<p><a name="LIGHT HIT"><strong>LIGHT HIT</strong></a><br />
A ball hitting the side of the pin deflecting it sideways.</p>
<p><a name="LILY"><strong>LILY</strong></a><br />
The 5-7-10 split<br />
; also known as the &#8220;sour apple&#8221;.</p>
<p><a name="LOFT"><strong>LOFT</strong></a><br />
The distance the ball travels between time of release and the time it hits the lane.</p>
<p><a name="LONG OIL"><strong>LONG OIL</strong></a><br />
Condition in which the lane conditioner is applied from the foul  line  farther than normal. There is no magic standard, but 35-40 feet or  more  of application was considered long oil. It can be a more difficult   condition in that there will be less back end to generate pocket entry   angle. Long Oil in today’s environment would be considered anything   longer than 40 feet of oil. 35 is now considered short oil.</p>
<p><a name="MAPLE"><strong>MAPLE</strong></a><br />
The hard wood used for the head portion of the lanes (foul line to   arrows).  Wood lanes are mostly obsolete on the PBA Tour. Only 1 center   will have wood lanes during the 2005-06 season.</p>
<p><a name="MASS BIAS"><strong>MASS BIAS</strong></a><br />
Mass bias in a bowling ball occurs when the weight block or portion  of  weight block is more dominant in one direction inside of a bowling   ball.</p>
<p><a name="MATCH PLAY"><strong>MATCH PLAY</strong></a><br />
A type of competition in which two bowlers compete against one  another,  rather than against the field as a whole. Typically, the winner  of a  match advances to the next round for another match.</p>
<p><a name="MESSENGER"><strong>MESSENGER</strong></a><br />
The name given to the pin that rolls across the pindeck into a pin or pins to either get a strike or break up a split.</p>
<p><a name="MINUS"><strong>MINUS</strong></a><br />
In competitive play, the amount of pins (including bonus, if any)  that a  player is scoring under a 200 average.  A player that shoots  1,534 for  eight (8) games is &#8220;minus&#8221; 66.</p>
<p><a name="NEGATIVE WEIGHT"><strong>NEGATIVE WEIGHT</strong></a><br />
Weight on a ball that tends to hold back the hook and/or to get the   ball into a roll earlier; bottom weight, negative side weight and thumb   weight are considered negative weights. These are considered static   weights that can be drilled into a ball.</p>
<p><a name="NO-TAP"><strong>NO-TAP</strong></a><br />
A type of competition where nine (9) pins on the first ball is  scored  as a strike; in some instances there are 8-pin no-tap events; in  those,  eights (8) pins or more on the first ball counts as a strike.</p>
<p><a name="OPEN FRAME"><strong>OPEN FRAME</strong></a><br />
A frame having neither a spare or strike.</p>
<p><a name="OPEN BOWLING"><strong>OPEN BOWLING</strong></a><br />
Bowling for the fun of it, as opposed to competing in league or tournament play.</p>
<p><a name="OUT OF BOUNDS"><strong>OUT OF BOUNDS</strong></a><br />
An area from which the ball can&#8217;t get to the pocket with its usual   break. If, for example, a right-handed bowler delivers the ball from too   far to the right, it is said to be out of bounds.</p>
<p><a name="OVER"><strong>OVER</strong></a><br />
To a professional bowler, the number of pins above 200. Thus a score of 224 is &#8220;24 over.&#8221;</p>
<p><a name="PAP"><strong>PAP</strong></a> (POSITIVE AXIS POINT)<br />
The point on the ball that is equidistant from all points of the release ball track.</p>
<p><a name="PAR"><strong>PAR</strong></a><br />
To a professional bowler, a 200 game.</p>
<p><a name="PERFECT GAME"><strong>PERFECT GAME</strong></a><br />
A game of all strikes&#8211;twelve strikes in a row&#8211;resulting in bowling&#8217;s maximum score of 300.</p>
<p><a name="PICKET FENCE"><strong>PICKET FENCE</strong></a><br />
The 1-2-4-7 or 1-3-6-10 spares.</p>
<p><a name="PIN DECK"><strong>PIN DECK</strong></a><br />
Area on which the pins are set.</p>
<p><a name="PIN PLACEMENT"><strong>PIN PLACEMENT</strong></a><br />
Out or In. A drilling term that is relative to a bowler&#8217;s track   designed purposely for creating more ball dynamics. A Pin-in ball (when   the pin is located within two inches of the Center of Gravity) is   excellent choice for control and less hook; a Pin-out ball usually can   be made to hook more and flip more dramatically than pin-in balls; they   often give the driller more options.</p>
<p><a name="PIT"><strong>PIT</strong></a><br />
The area of the lane behind the pin deck. The area at the end of the lane.</p>
<p><a name="PITCH"><strong>PITCH</strong></a><br />
Angle at which the holes in a ball are drilled.</p>
<p><a name="PLUS"><strong>PLUS</strong></a><br />
In competitive play, the amount of pins (including bonus, if any)  that a  player is scoring over a 200 average; a player that shoots 1,734  for  eight (8) games is &#8220;plus&#8221; 134. See also &#8220;minus&#8221;, &#8220;over&#8221; and &#8220;under&#8221;.</p>
<p><a name="POCKET"><strong>POCKET</strong></a><br />
The desirable location for the ball to hit the pins to maximize  strike  potential. Generally the area between the 1-3 pins (right-hand  player)  or the 1-2 pins (left-hand player). This is the target for the  first  ball in a frame.</p>
<p><a name="POSITIVE WEIGHT"><strong>POSITIVE WEIGHT</strong></a><br />
Weight on a ball that tends to enhance the hook and/or to get the  ball  into a roll later down the lane; top weight, positive side weight  and  finger weight are considered positive weights. These are considered   static weights that can be drilled into a ball.</p>
<p><a name="PUNCH OUT"><strong>PUNCH OUT</strong></a><br />
To finish with consecutive strikes, from any frame on.</p>
<p><a name="PUSHAWAY"><strong>PUSHAWAY</strong></a><br />
The pushing out (forward) of the ball to begin the swing (coincides with first step of four-step approach.)</p>
<p><a name="RADIUS OF GYRATION"><strong>RADIUS OF GYRATION</strong></a> (RG)<br />
Identifies how fast a ball begins to rotate once it leaves the bowler&#8217;s hand.</p>
<p><a name="RANGE FINDERS"><strong>RANGE FINDERS</strong></a><br />
Markers in the lane that help the bowler determine the target line.   There are two sets of such markers: 10 dots located seven feet past the   foul line and seven arrows arranged in a triangle beginning 16 feet   beyond the foul line. There are also range finders at 35 and 40 feet   down the lane per USBC rules.</p>
<p><a name="RE-RACK"><strong>RE-RACK</strong></a><br />
Resetting the pins to a new full rack due to a perceived mis-spotting of one or more pins.</p>
<p><a name="REVOLUTIONS"><strong>REVS/REVOLUTIONS</strong></a><br />
The number of times the ball rolls over its circumference from when  it  is released until it contacts the pins; as a rule, more is better.</p>
<p><a name="ROLL OUT"><strong>ROLL OUT</strong></a><br />
A ball that loses its side rotation before hitting the pins; the  hook action stops at that point and the ball straightens out.</p>
<p><a name="SANDBAGGING"><strong>SANDBAGGING</strong></a><br />
Deliberately keeping an average low so that person can receive a bigger handicap.</p>
<p><a name="SCRATCH"><strong>SCRATCH</strong></a><br />
The actual score the bowler makes; it is without any handicap adjustment (to equalize competition).</p>
<p><a name="SIX PACK"><strong>SIX PACK</strong></a><br />
Six strikes in a row.</p>
<p><a name="SKID"><strong>SKID</strong></a><br />
What the ball does when it first hits the lane surface; all balls need to skid before hooking.</p>
<p><a name="SLEEPER"><strong>SLEEPER</strong></a><br />
A rear pin that is not easily seen because of a pin directly in front of it (Ex.: 2-8, 3-9, 1-5). See Double Wood</p>
<p><a name="SOUR APPLE"><strong>SOUR APPLE</strong></a><br />
A weak hit that leaves leaves the 5-7, 5-10 or 5-7-10 split; also, the 5-7-10 split itself. Also known as the &#8220;lily&#8221;.</p>
<p><a name="SPAN"><strong>SPAN</strong></a><br />
On a bowling ball, the distance between the thumb and finger holes</p>
<p><a name="SPARE"><strong>SPARE</strong></a><br />
To knock down the remaining pins standing left after the first throw with the second throw.</p>
<p><a name="SPLIT"><strong>SPLIT</strong></a><br />
Various combination of pins standing after a first throw where one  or  more pins has been knocked down creating a space between standing  pins  and thus a harder spare. Examples: 4-5, 5-6, 4-7, 6-10, 7-10,  4-6-7-10.</p>
<p><a name="SPOT BOWLING"><strong>SPOT BOWLING</strong></a><br />
A method of aiming the ball in which spots (arrows and dots) on the   lane are used as targets rather than looking at the pins during the   throw.</p>
<p><a name="STRIKE"><strong>STRIKE</strong></a><br />
Knocking down all 10 pins with the first effort.</p>
<p><a name="TAP"><strong>TAP</strong></a><br />
An apparent perfect hit for a strike but one pin is left standing.</p>
<p><a name="TURKEY"><strong>TURKEY</strong></a><br />
Three consecutive strikes.</p>
<p><a name="300 Game"><strong>THREE HUNDRED (300) GAME</strong></a><br />
A perfect game.</p>
<p><a name="TOP WEIGHT"><strong>TOP WEIGHT</strong></a><br />
Drilling of a ball so that there is more weight above the label than there is below; it is considered a positive weight.</p>
<p><a name="VACANCY"><strong>VACANCY</strong></a><br />
A &#8220;dummy&#8221; score used when a team does not have the same number on  the  team roster as do other teams. The vacancy score is set by the  league  and carries a handicap the same as if some bowler was carrying  that  average.</p>
<p><a name="VENT HOLE"><strong>VENT HOLE</strong></a><br />
An extra hole drilled to relieve suction in the thumb hole; not a gripping hole.</p>
<p><a name="WASHOUT"><strong>WASHOUT</strong></a><br />
A “split” with the headpin standing; symbolized as &#8220;W&#8221;; not making  the  spare is considered a blow or error, not a split.  For example, the   1-2-4-10 or 1-2-10 for right-handed bowlers, or the 1-3-6-7 or 1-3-7 for   left-handers is considered a “washout.”</p>
<p><a name="WEIGHT BLOCK"><strong>WEIGHT BLOCK</strong></a><br />
The interior portion of a ball that adds extra weight to it to bring   the overall gross weight higher. Knowledge of the location of the   weight block is used to create balls with differing positive and   negative weight distributions.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Bowling Ball Drilling Q&amp;A</title>
		<link>http://chrisondo.com/2011/03/08/bowling-ball-drilling-qa/</link>
		<comments>http://chrisondo.com/2011/03/08/bowling-ball-drilling-qa/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Mar 2011 04:13:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chris</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bowling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://chrisondo.com/?p=496</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The average competitive bowler understands that when he owns his own bowling ball, he needs to have finger holes drilled in the ball before bowling a frame. However, many bowlers do not realize the various tips and techniques for drilling a ball properly. Handling Most bowling balls have a visible mark on their outer surface [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The average competitive bowler understands that when he owns his own bowling ball, he needs to have finger holes drilled in the ball before bowling a frame. However, many bowlers do not realize the various tips and techniques for drilling a ball properly.</p>
<p><strong>Handling</strong><br />
Most bowling balls have a visible mark on their outer      surface that shows where a ball’s center of gravity, or CG, is. Bowling      balls will also exhibit the top of the ball’s weight block with a small      dot. These two factors are what drilling professionals manipulate to drill      your ball properly. Proper handling of your ball before drilling consists      of you taking note of where these two marks are on your bowling ball.</p>
<p><strong>Straight and True</strong><br />
If you are a bowler who likes to throw the ball further      down the lane without concerning yourself with hooking the ball into the      pins, then you will want to request that your pro shop manager drill your      ball with a label drilling process. With this type of drilling, your      finger holes would be positioned to place the ball’s center of gravity      directly in the center of your grip, and the ball’s pin placement is      almost just to the right of your ring finger’s hole. The end result of      this type of drilling is a ball that caters to the straight and true type      of bowler, someone who likes to aim for the headpin with little or no hook      in the ball’s planned path.</p>
<p><strong>Medium Hook</strong><br />
If you are looking to throw the ball down the lane with      a relatively small angle of attack, commonly referred to as hook, then you      should consider drilling your bowling ball with length/forward roll      pattern. This technique will place the ball’s pin just above your ring      finger’s hole, and the ball’s center of gravity will be positioned on the      outside of your hand so that if you were to throw the ball down the lane,      you would ideally have the center of gravity rolling on the side of the      ball facing the inner part of the lane.</p>
<p>Along with this tip, you should also consider adding what is called a “balance hole” in your drill pattern. A balance hole helps to manipulate the ball’s center of gravity and weight block and is usually placed somewhere on a ball in a way that does not interfere with your finger and thumb holes. A balance hole here would greatly increase the back-end reaction of your bowling ball but will not cause your ball to be too overpowering for your mid-range hook taste. Your pro shop owner or manager can help you decide where to place the balance hole.</p>
<p><strong>Maximum Hook</strong><br />
Manipulating a bowling ball to hook to its full potential      is something that only experienced bowlers should attempt, as controlling      a bowling ball like this is much more difficult than any other. Bowlers      looking for a way to get that flashy, exciting reaction out of their      bowling ball should drill what is called a maximum hook/back-end pattern. <strong>Balance      holes are most commonly used with this ball drilling technique.</strong> Make      sure the ball’s pin is placed to the right of your ring finger’s hole and      that your ball’s center of gravity is outside your grip so that it is      almost facing the inner part of the lane when the ball is rolled.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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